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 March 2010 - In this Issue:
 
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 "Omelets and Others"

 
  Yum!

Cheesecake is one of the top three favorite desserts in the country along with pie and ice cream. Are we surprised? No! Creamy, delicious, and with seemingly endless flavor varieties, cheesecake sets the dessert table as easily at the coffee shop as at the white linen bistro. In fact, it’s a weak dessert menu if there’s not at least one cheesecake offering. But,Cheesecake Served this wonderful creation is not limited to dining out; it’s quite easy to make at home with minimal effort. In this issue, we expose the secrets for making great cheesecakes, discuss baking pans that will yield the desired results, and finish with three marvelous cheesecake recipes for you to try. You’ll be pleased with the results!

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  Upcoming Cooking Classes

Cooking SchoolsNEWLY ADDED - NON PUBLISHED COOKING CLASSES
Our Cooking School has added two new Celebrated Chef - Offsite classes to our current class calendar. These classes are available for immediate registration.

NEW CLASS -- AT La Chaya Bistro
4537 Nicollet Avenue, - Minneapolis
La Chaya Bistro in specializes in fresh natural foods with influences from the Mediterranean and Mexico. Chef and co-owner Juan Juarez Garcia prepares foods that reflect the flavors of his native Mexico, as well as Southern Italy, where he has also lived. He brings an appreciation for the high quality, organic ingredients to the menu at La Chaya. You’d never guess that this charming bistro in south Minneapolis is a former Kentucky Fried Chicken outpost. It has been transformed into a stylish but unpretentious space featuring reclaimed wood, artwork from local photographers and a lovely patio. Chef Garcia will prepare “Lunch in the Yucatan” which begins with SALBURTES, a very traditional style soft corn tortilla topped with beans, shredded chicken, pickled onion and avocado. Our second course is SOPA DE LIMA, lime soup served with chicken. The main course is PESCADO TIX N CHIX, achiote rubbed fish cooked in a banana leaf with onions and green peppers. The fish is served with PAPAS AL TIGRE, a potato salad unique to Playa del Carmen, Mexico which is made with cilantro, lime and onion.
Juan Juarez Garcia | Demonstration | $75
#3065 – Saturday, April 10 | 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.
-- REGISTER NOW

NEW CLASS -- AT Mission American Bar & Kitchen
77 South 7th St. - Minneapolis

Located in the IDS Building in downtown Minneapolis, Mission American Kitchen features contemporary American cuisine with a sophisticated spin in a comfortably stylish atmosphere full of art, bright color and comfy booths. Mission boasts a marble-topped bar with an impressive beer and wine list and large windows to view the bustle of downtown. Chef Jeremy LaFond is our host for a menu that starts with an appetizer of SEARED TUNA with GRILLED BABY BOK CHOY, SESAME AND CHILI BUTTER. Our second course is VINE RIPENED TOMATO SALAD WITH HOUSEMADE FRESH MOZZARELLA AND AGED BALSAMIC. Our main course is PAN SEARED HALIBUT served with OVEN ROASTED TOMATO AND WHITE BEANS. For dessert, we’ll enjoy a classic RED VELVET CAKE.
Jeremy LaFond | Demonstration/Wine | $75
#3084 – Saturday, April 24 | 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.
-- REGISTER NOW

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 Featured Cheesecake Items
Making cheesecakes at home couldn't be easier! We found these tools very helpful in turning out fabulous cheesecake desserts! To top off the moment, a wonderful presentation of your creation will set the scene visually -- the cheesecake will do the rest!
 Knife of the Month - March

KNIFE OF THE MONTH
Trident Birds Beak
Wusthof Trident 4 1/2" Utility

The Wusthof Classic 4.5 inch Utility Knife is an excellent multipurpose addition to your cutlery collection. Use this knife to clean and peel fruits and veggies, mince herbs or slice shallots and garlic.

Trident Classic 4.5" Utility - Suggested Retail $75 THIS MONTH $39.99
Trident Classic Ikon 4.5" Utility - Suggested Retail $105 THIS MONTH $69.99

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 Making Perfect Cheesecakes

Cheesecake has received a reputation for being difficult to make – we’re not sure why – it’s much easier than most pastries, and the results always delight even when they don’t turn out just right! We’ll take things step-by-step and guide you to perfect cheesecakes – or at least better cheesecakes!

Crust – the ideal cheesecake crust provides a complementary platform for the cheesecake. Typically, recipes use a dry crumb moistened with a bit of melted butter patted into the bottom of the pan. Unlike a pie, a cheesecake crust covers just the bottom and a half-inch, or so, up the sides. The crust helps to form a barrier between the batter and the pan. After patting the crumbly crust into the pan, place the pan in the freezer for 10-15 minutes while mixing the batter. This serves to harden the crust into place and prevent any shifting of the crust when the batter is added. Many bakers choose to prebake the crust in the oven for 7-10 minutes prior to adding the batter.

Mixing the Batter – Smoothness is the watchword when it comes to mixing the perfect cheesecake batter. Cheesecake is primarily a cheese of one kind or another, eggs, and sugar. In the U.S., cream cheese is the common choice. In Italy, it’s ricotta cheese, and in other regions, different forms of fresh, unripened cheese are used.

Have your ingredients at room temperature before mixing. Start with beating the cheese on low speed into a very smooth consistency; lumps will not disappear or dissolve during baking, so this is the moment to achieve the desired smooth, creamy texture. Eggs serve to thicken the batter when baking. Add them one-by-one incorporating thoroughly into the cheese. Using a low speed while mixing will prevent over-aerating the batter.

Baking – Cheesecakes typically bake between 325-350ºF, and for 1 to 1.5 hours. This low and slow strategy allows for even baking – the outside will not be over-baked, and the inside will not be under-baked. The first half of baking is crucial for allowing air bubbles to expand and raise the batter. Avoid opening the oven door to check progress; this will change the oven’s temperature and risk collapse of the forming texture. There are “no-bake” cheesecake variations, but we tend not to think of them as “real” cheesecakes.

Checking for Doneness – A reliable, tested recipe is your best resource for timing when baking your cheesecake. The center of the pan should be wiggly and wobbly still; this may appear as underdone, but the center will continue to cook and set up during the initial stages of cooling.

Chilling – Allow the cheesecake to cool on a wire rack until it reaches room temperature – about 2 hours. Keeping the cheesecake in the pan, wrap it well and refrigerate for at least 4-6 hours. The famed chef, Dorie Greenspan, says in her book, Baking, that the cooling and chilling process is just as important to the finished cheesecake as the baking!

Serving – Cheesecake is almost synonymous with “richness.” Allow the cheesecake to set at room temperature for 30 minutes prior to serving to remove the chill just a bit. Where a 9-inch pie might be cut into eight wedges, a 9-inch cheesecake graciously serves twelve. A scalloped-edged knife, like the Wusthof Super Slicer, glides through the cheesecake while cutting neatly through the crust. Wipe the knife clean after each cut. A pie server will deftly lift the slice to the plate. A slice of cheesecake is typically served upright for dramatic effect, but can just as easily be laid on its side with toppings applied.

Crust
Pat the crumb crust in the bottom of the pan and just slightly up the sides
Baked Cheesecake
Bake cheesecakes slowly at low-to-medium temperatures; allow to cool slowly and thoroughly
Cutting the Cheesecake
Wusthof's Super Slicer
handles both crust and cheesecake well
Serving Cheesecake
Use a wedge-shaped pie server to securely serve each slice
 Perfect Pans

A finished cheesecake is fragile at the same time that it’s substantial and heavy. For good outcomes at the point of serving, it’s essential that you start with a proper pan. There are two basic pan styles deployed when making cheesecake; either style will ensure easy handling at finale time.

Springform Pan
Springform Pan
Ring clamps tightly around bottom


Springform Pans – This pan is the common standard for cheesecake. The pan comes in two parts, a bottom, and a circular band that forms its removable sides. The band fits around the bottom and the clamp snugly tightens the ring into place forming a leak-proof seal. Most springform pans have 3-inch high sides that allow for lofty baking. To remove a cheesecake or other baked good from a springform pan, run the back of a knife or a spatula around the edge, carefully unclamp and lift away the ring.

Removable Bottom Pan
9-inch Removable Bottom Pan
Bottom plate fits on ring's "shelf"

Removable Bottom Pans – Some bakers prefer this type of pan for cheesecake. The bottom of the pan sits on a “shelf” formed by the sides of the pan. The weight of the batter presses the bottom and the side ring together. When baking and chilling is complete, run a blunt knife or spatula around the sides of the pan. Holding the pan with one hand, push the cheesecake up from the bottom. You may carefully transfer the cheesecake from the pan’s bottom, or keep the bottom in place for serving. Removable bottom pans come in all shapes, sizes, and heights and are useful far beyond the cheesecake world.

Pan Surfaces – The surfaces of baking pans vary in their finish. For cheesecake, nonstick surfaces are a bonus since the pan is not typically prepared by greasing and flouring as with most cakes. Alternatively, parchment paper may be used to line the pan’s bottom and sides. The paper prevents any sticking to the pan, and is easily removed.

Parchment Collar
Parchment Paper
Use parchment paper to add a collar and extra height to the pan's sides

Pan Height – Cheesecakes love to loft during baking and our preference seems to be “the taller the better” when it comes to a slice of cheesecake – the soaring heights add to the decadence! Choose a pan with a minimum of 3-inch sides. If needed, additional height can be had by forming a collar of parchment paper while lining the sides of the pan.

Pan Diameter – When making cheesecake, match the pan size to your recipe. This will ensure that the baking time provided in the recipe is an accurate estimate. For example, the volume of a 9-inch pan with 3-inch high sides is 191 cubic inches; the volume of a 10-inch pan with 3-inch high sides is 236 cubic inches. This is a difference of 45 cubic inches or 24%. If you must adapt your baking to a different size of pan, adjust the baking time accordingly.

 Cheesecake Improv

Cheesecake’s popularity is due, in part, to its adaptability. The mild, slightly tangy cream cheeses or ricotta cheeses accept a wide range of flavors. It’s only the imagination that is limited. Here are a few of our favorite riffs on cheesecake:

Removable Bottom Pans
Removable Bottom Pans
in 9, 6, 3-inch sizes

Savory Cheesecakes – The savory side of cheesecake is a great discovery ahead of you if you haven’t already become familiar with this notion. A savory cheesecake may be served as an appetizer, a spread, or as a luncheon entrée accompanied by a green salad. (See the savory recipe below).

Shift the Size – While most cheesecake dreams evoke the image of a slice, you may shift the expectation and presentation of cheesecake by making different sizes of cheesecake. Both springform and removable bottom pans come in varying diameters. Choose a 3 x 3-inch pan for an individual cheesecake, or a 6 x 3 pan for a savory appetizer version. Ramekins are suitable for cheesecake only if they are also the serving vessel; it is often difficult to remove a cheesecake from a pan that does not have a removable bottom of one kind or another.

Crust Variations – The standard for cheesecake seems to be a graham cracker crust. But, the world is big! Experiment with complementary flavors: ginger snaps, vanilla wafers, shortbread cookies, nut meals, or biscotti. For savory cheesecakes, try crusts made of cheesy crackers, saltines, crushed pretzels, or corn chips.

Tiramisu Cheesecake
Explore cheesecake flavors and variations

Batter Variations – Once you’ve mastered a basic cheesecake, the door to flavor variations opens wide! In the featured cookbook below, Chef Geary offers hundreds of his personal favorites. As you explore flavor additions think in three directions – the crust, the batter, and any toppings.

Topping Variations – Classic toppings of whipped cream or sweetened sour cream are almost always appropriate with cheesecake. Fruit, fresh or sauced, is the perfect visual complement and a tasty pairing. Other sauces, fudge, caramel, dulce le leche, or crème anglaise are all perfect accompaniments.

 Kitchen Window Smart Cheesecake Tips
Two Pie Servers
Choose from many styles of pie servers

Tip #1: Cracks in cheesecake can form while baking. Several factors can lead to cracking. Bake your cheesecake in a medium to medium-low oven so that it bakes slowly and more evenly. Cool the cheesecake gradually; some recommend allowing the cheesecake to cool in the oven with the door propped open. Cracks may also form if the cheesecake has baked too long; don’t overbake.

Tip #2: If your cheesecake develops a crack, don’t sweat it. Repair the crack by smoothing the baked batter, or camouflaging it with toppings.

Tip #3: Wrap your cheesecake well when chilling; it will easily pick up any odors present in your refrigerator.

Tip #4: Use fresh cream cheese for your cheesecakes. Cream cheese does not freeze well, i.e., don’t buy a lot of it on sale hoping to stockpile for the future. Freezing changes the cream cheese’s texture making it unsuitable for use. Do not substitute non-fat cream cheese or whipped cream cheese in your recipe – they do not mix or bake the same way as regular cream cheese.

Marbled Cheesecake

Tip #5: Carefully store both springform and removable bottom pans so that they are not subject to warping or bending. We dry our springform pan very, very well, then store in a nearly clamped position.

Tip #6: The pan’s bottom may be kept in place when plating and serving, but if you would like to transfer the cheesecake from the bottom, line the bottom with parchment paper to minimize any sticking of the crust. Use a broad cookie spatula or circular cake spatula to manage the transfer.

Tip #7: Some cheesecake recipes call for baking cheesecake in a water bath for more even cooking. Place the cheesecake pan on a sheet of aluminum foil and fold up the sides to prevent any water seepage into the pan.

Tip #8: Baked cheesecakes freeze very well. Remove a chilled cheesecake from its pan; allow it to freeze well while placed on a plate or cookie sheet. Once frozen, wrap well and freeze for up to four months. Thaw frozen cheesecake overnight in the refrigerator.

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 Q & A's
Cream Cheese

Q: What is cream cheese?
A:
Cream cheese is a fresh, unripened, pasteurized cheese comprised of 33% milk fat with a slightly acidic character from the lactic acid formed by introduced bacteria. The fat content of cream cheese is higher than most cheeses making it a common substitute for butter. Cream cheese is often compared to the French Neufchatel cheese that is similar in texture and acidic taste, but is ripened unlike American cream cheese.

Q: What is a New York-style cheesecake?
A:
Different explanations exist for this cheesecake term. Generally, the origins converge around a cheesecake that is made with cream cheese (as opposed to ricotta), and with just the flavors of the cheese, egg, and sugar. The popularity of cheesecake in New York City in the 1930s, no doubt, has played a role in the colloquial term.

Q: What is parchment paper?
A:
Parchment paper is paper with integrated silicone. The silicone can handle heat where waxed paper cannot. Parchment is a common baking liner that is moisture, grease, and heat resistant. However, parchment is still paper and will burn around the magic number of 451ºFahrenheit. Avoid its use in broiling or in toaster ovens where the heating element may be too close to the paper.

Mini-Cheesecake
Individual 3-inch Pans
Mini-Cheesecakes

Q: Many baking pans are made from “anodized aluminum.” What does this term mean?
A:
Anodized aluminum is the result of aluminum exposed to an acid-induced oxidation process. This chemical process hardens aluminum in a special way that makes it especially durable. Heat is transferred evenly through anodized aluminum. A natural finish exists with anodized aluminum that creates an inert surface, i.e., aluminum will not transfer from the pan to the food. Pans may be prepared as “hard anodized” or “silver anodized.” A hard anodized pan is processed longer and has an even harder surface. Wash all anodized aluminum pans by hand, and never in the dishwasher.

 Cookbook Review
The Cheesecake bible by George Geary. Copyright 2008. Published by Robert Rose Inc., Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

Cookbook
 

Who knew there could be so many different kinds of cheesecake? George Geary has assembled a compendium of hundreds of cheesecake recipes that cover some serious culinary ground with their range of flavors and combinations. He tutors us through the basics in the first chapter, then unleashes the possibilities with following chapters such as “Chocolate Cheesecakes,” “Citrus Cheesecakes,” “Nut Cheesecakes,” and many other chapters. We especially enjoyed the chapter on “Savory Cheesecakes” where wonderful flavors are brought to the richness of the cheesecake world. He helps us explore small cheesecakes, classic and inventive toppings, and concludes with a series of “Celebration Cheesecakes” that truly would make any occasion even more special. Each recipe is presented succinctly and clearly with added variation notes and presentation suggestions. This cookbook gets extra points for offering all of the measurements in metric quantities – weighing ingredients allows for the most accurate results and the least amount of clean-up. From basic to exotic, you’ll find a cheesecake suitable for any occasion in this book!



 Three Fabulous Cheesecake Recipes
Recipes excerpted from The Cheesecake bible by George Geary. Copyright 2008. Published by Robert Rose Inc., Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Reprinted with permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.

Blue Ribbon Cheesecake
We know why this is called the Blue Ribbon Cheesecake -- it has all of the qualities of a winner! This basic cheesecake is a great place to start if you’re a newbie to baking your own cheesecakes. The recipe went together quickly, lofted nicely, and tasted just how we thought a cheesecake should taste. We agree with George’s mother who likes this recipe the best!

View recipe

Blue Ribbon Cheesecake

Black Forest Cheesecake
This classic combination of chocolate and cherries is reinvented in this cheesecake. The crust is made of chocolate sandwich cookies with the crème filling adding a bit of “extra” to the final result. The bittersweet chocolate combined with the cheese, produced some kind of dessert dreamland in our mouth. The cherries and whipped cream completed the moment.

View recipe

Black Forest Cheesecake

Pesto Sun-Dried Tomato Cheesecake
If you’re unfamiliar with savory cheesecakes, this is a great recipe with which to experiment. The fresh flavors of basil and garlic combine with the intensity of sun-dried tomatoes to create a scrumptious wedge. We served it once as a luncheon entrée, and a second time as an appetizer spread on crackers. Tasty, rich and wonderfully different.

View recipe

Pesto Cheesecake

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